Work through this in order
Most no-start problems are simple and most of them are electrical. Working through the checks in order — cheapest and most likely first — will usually find the fault in ten minutes, and even when it does not, you will arrive at the dealer able to describe exactly what happens.
First, identify which problem you actually have
| What happens when you press start | Points toward |
|---|---|
| Nothing at all — no dash, no lights | Battery, main fuse, or a connection |
| Dash lights up but dies when you press start | Battery low on charge |
| Single click, no crank | Battery or starter relay |
| Cranks slowly | Battery, or a poor earth connection |
| Cranks normally but won't fire | Fuel, ignition, or a safety interlock |
| Nothing happens and the dash looks normal | Almost always a safety interlock — see below |
Check these first — they cost nothing
1. The safety interlocks. This catches more people than anything else, including experienced riders:
- Kill switch in the run position
- Side stand up — most bikes will not start in gear with the stand down
- In neutral, or clutch fully pulled in
- Ignition actually on — sounds obvious, happens constantly
- Fuel in the tank. Gauges fail. Also happens constantly
2. Battery terminals. Loose or corroded terminals imitate a dead battery perfectly. Check they are clean and tight before assuming anything.
3. The fuses. Your manual shows the fuse box location and layout. Look for a blown main fuse. If a fuse blows again immediately after replacement, stop — there is a short circuit somewhere and continuing will make it worse.
If the dash is dim or the starter is slow
This is a battery or charging problem, and the two are different:
- If it starts after a jump or a charge and then fails again after standing — the battery is likely at the end of its life, or something is drawing current when the bike is off
- If it starts after a charge but goes flat again while riding — the charging system needs checking, and a new battery will not fix it
- If you do a lot of short journeys — the battery may simply never be getting fully charged. See the battery care thread
Before buying a battery: charge it fully and test again. A discharged battery is not necessarily a dead one.
If it cranks normally but won't fire
- Fuel: is there any, and has it been standing for months? Degraded fuel is a common cause after winter
- Any warning light on the dash, particularly an engine management light. Note it — that is diagnostic information
- Did anything change before it stopped working? An accessory fitted, a wash, a battery disconnection, a jump start
- Fault codes. If your dash displays a code, write it down exactly. It is the single most useful thing you can give a mechanic
When to stop and get help
- A fuse that blows repeatedly
- A burning smell, or any melted or discoloured connector
- Fuel leaking anywhere
- The bike is under warranty — do not start dismantling things. Document the fault and take it in
Post your case
Code:
Model, year, mileage:
Exactly what happens when you press start:
Any warning lights or codes:
Anything that changed recently:
Battery age:
What you've already checked:The more of these we collect, the more useful this thread becomes to the next person — and patterns in the replies are worth more than any single answer.