The highest-value maintenance habit there is
A neglected chain wears itself, wears both sprockets, robs power and — in the worst case — fails. A cared-for chain can last several times longer than a neglected one on the same bike.
The technique below is universal. The numbers — slack measurement, adjustment specification — come from your manual, not from here.
Cleaning
- Use a dedicated chain cleaner or a gentle degreaser. Aggressive solvents can damage the O-rings or X-rings that seal lubricant inside the chain — once those go, the chain is finished
- A soft brush, worked around the chain with the bike on a stand and the wheel turning by hand
- Never with the engine running. People have lost fingers doing this. Turn the wheel by hand, in neutral, always
- Wipe it dry before lubricating
Lubricating
- Apply to a warm chain after a ride — it penetrates better
- Apply to the inner face, where the rollers meet the sprockets. Lubricant on the outer plates does nothing except attract dirt and fling onto your wheel
- Less than you think. Excess flings off and collects grit
- Let it settle before riding, ideally leaving it overnight
Adjustment
Chain slack is measured at a specific point and to a specific figure in your manual. Too tight is more damaging than slightly loose — an over-tightened chain loads the gearbox output bearing and can destroy it.
When adjusting:
- Check slack through a full wheel rotation. Chains wear unevenly and a tight spot means you must set slack at the tightest point
- Keep the wheel aligned. Use the alignment marks, and verify them — marks are not always accurate
- Torque the axle nut to the manual's figure. This is not optional and it is not a job for guesswork
When to replace
Signs a chain is finished: tight spots that will not adjust out, visible kinking, the ability to lift the chain noticeably away from the rear sprocket, or hooked and pointed sprocket teeth.
Replace chain and both sprockets together. A new chain on worn sprockets destroys itself quickly.
Your routine?
Post what you do and how often, your riding conditions, and what mileage you are getting from a chain. Wet-weather commuters and dry-climate riders will have very different answers, and both are useful.